Backyard Composting
Introduction Composting is a naturally occurring process. It starts as leaves, branches, fruit, and plants fall to the floor of their ecosystem. Then precipitation (rain or snow) moistens the organic materials and allows microorganisms to begin decomposing the organics. Natural decomposition of organic materials can take up to two years, but with human intervention the process can be accelerated, taking between three months and a year. At the end, the compost material will become humus, a dark brown or black soil-like material that is highly nutritious for gardens, farms, and other plants around the yard. According the the United States Environmental Protection Agency, 20-30% of U.S. waste was food scraps1. Food scraps, along with all other waste materials, are sent to landfills where they begin to rot and decompose with other materials around them resulting in methane gas, a detrimental greenhouse gas, being released into the atmosphere. Composting is an effective solution to minimizing landfill usage, limiting methane emissions, and improving soil quality. This wiki will give you the basics to start your own compost pile. Benefits of Back Yard Composting2 *reduces need for water, fertilizers, and pesticides *save landfill space *reduces methane emissions *lowers carbon and nitrogen footprint *helps soil retain moisture and inhibit plant diseases and pests *better nutrition for gardens than fertilizers *helps the environment (reducing waste & recycling nutrients) *save money (disposal costs & fertilizer cost) Things to Monitor while Composting '''-Nutrient Balance-' The compost pile needs to have a proper ratio of brown material (dry leaves, sticks, twigs) to green material (grass clippings, food scraps, coffee grounds). Brown materials contribute carbon and the green materials contribute nitrogen. Finding the correct ratio requires trial and error. Experiment! A good starting place is a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio of browns to greens. Some examples of what you can put in your compost pile: *fruits and veggies *eggshells *coffee grounds and filters *tea bags *nut shells *shredded newspaper *paper/cardboard *yard trimmings *grass clippings *houseplants *hay and straw *leaves *sawdust *wood chips *cotton and wool rags *dryer and vacuum lint *hair and fur *fireplace ashes Examples of things that you want to avoid putting in your compost pile: *black walnut tree leaves or twigs *coal or charcoal ash *dairy products *diseased plants *fats or oils *meat, fish, and bones *pet wastes *yard trimmings treated with chemicals '-Material Size-' Smaller particle size of materials increases the surface are exposed to microorganism. This means smaller particles leads to faster decomposition. Materials should be chopped or ground before adding to the pile. The smaller particle size also helps insulate the compost pile. '-Moisture-' The microorganisms require moisture to survive. Water helps carry nutrients throughout the pile, and makes the nutrients more accessible to the microorganisms. Moisture can be added in the form of precipitation or intentional watering. In the Midwest, watering is less of a concern because of the high precipitation and humidity levels. '-Oxygen Flow-' The microorganisms present are aerobic meaning they need air to work properly. Aerating the pile can accelerate the decomposition process, but be careful not to dry out the pile! Methods used for aerating include turning with a pitch fork, placing the pile in a strategic fashion to promote air flow, and bulking agents (wood chips or newspaper). People disagree on this element of composting. Some say turn the pile frequently, others say add consecutive layers of wood chips to create air flow and only turn 1-2 times in a year. Experiment! Find what works best for you and stick with it. '-Temperature-' Again, the microorganisms are picky so the temperature has to be warm enough for them to function. Inside the pile the microbial activity produces heat resulting in temperatures of up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. This high temperature kills harmful pathogens and weed seeds. This is controlled through managing the afore mentioned elements, but can also be aided by keeping the pile covered with a tarp or layer of wood chips. Common Problems & Questions3 '-Bad Smell-' The compost pile should not smell terrible. If it stinks, that means it was overloaded with food scraps and the microorganisms did not break down everything before it started to rot. Simply turn the pile to to provide the bacteria with more oxygen. '-Worms Escaping-' If worms are crawling out of your pile or bin, it means the conditions are not right for them. It is either too moist or too acidic. Check the moisture, turn as needed. If that seems okay, then add some lime and hold off on the citrus peels for awhile. '-Fruit Flies-' The presence of fruit flies is a result of rotting food. This means the pile was overloaded with food scraps. Do not overload the pile with food scraps. To prevent fruit flies, add food scraps fresh and cover the pile with tarp or woodchips. '-Weather-' Weather is not a huge factor. In the midwest we do not need to worry about moisture as much as California or other similar states. However, aerating the pile is more of a concern for midwesterners because of the amount of moisture. '-City Regulations-' Check with your local government for their policies on backyard composting. For information on municipal composting click here. 'SOURCES''' #http://www.epa.gov/composting #http://www2.epa.gov/recycle/composting-home #http://www.ecocycle.org/backyard-composting